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Colours of Great Barrier Reef

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All in a sudden I decided to do it. Under any circumstance, there are things you should not delay. That’s what I thought when I decided to visit Great Barrier Reef. It’s a fantasy; it’s a dream.


Great Barrier Reef (GBR) is the largest coral reef system on earth that consists of more than 2900 identified individual reefs. Obviously, it’s one of the ultimate wonders of nature. Northern Queensland of Australia is one of the best gateways to GBR.  Coral reefs are the richest ecosystems on earth. Richer than tropical rain forests.

You can select basically one from Cairns or Port Douglas to stay and get in to a diving boat. I selected Cairns due to the easy access to Cairns Airport and my wife can do some shopping while I am away.

If you are flying to North Queensland, February is not the best time, but it’s the best “wallet-friendly” time. “Very hot, Very humid and most of all Very nice people” That’s the first impression about Cairns. It’s not a big city... definitely not Sydney... because people of Cairns have time to smile with someone and willing to please someone.  It’s like somewhere in Sri Lanka. You can make new friends while waiting for a bus. Man made lagoon in the heart of the City is one of the remarkable icons for Cairns.

Onboard community

I travelled in a modern speed boat to the reef as I planned. It contains everything; diving gear, drinks, meals and very comfortable lounge type areas to rest. Most of all, boat was full of people from all around the world who had their own different reasons to do this expedition. It was a good experience to share our knowledge and inspirations. I met a nice guy from Michigan who was bit nervous, but he badly wanted to do this dive. Again I met a middle aged guy from Argentina who was travelling with his twin teenage daughters. I enjoyed his company and his humorous style of talking.

“Well, you are from Argentina... Are you a Football fan?”

“Yep, if you don’t like Football in Argentina, you will be taken to jail..., it’s illegal not to be a fan, so I am a fan!”

“I see... I am a cricket fan in Sri Lanka... the same way”

I was the only black (Asian) guy except for one Fijian diving instructor who was training snorkelling for amateurs. Next significant thing about me within that circle was I am the slimmest of all. When selecting diving gear one crew member was telling “Ladies and perhaps ..Sumedha can use these small size yellow fins...” Then he smiled at me and added... “take it as a compliment mate..” . “Ok, I will” I said to myself.




Diving

I teamed up with few others. It was guided by experienced dive master from Queensland called Rachel. Other team members were my buddy diver Sean and a young couple from UK. Sean was an experienced diver and he wanted to get good photos of the reef, which was my idea too. So it was a good match.


When I dived first... I felt like I am entering to a dream world because my mind was telling me... that I am really in it! I have been waiting for this moment. It was the marvellous warm waters welcome you. If I recall my memory of coral reefs of Hikkaduwa or Trincomalee, I saw more vibrant soft corals in GBR. It is also said that GBR is the healthiest coral reef on earth today. I usually don’t dive more than twice per day, but this time I was too greedy and made three consecutive dives in two different reefs, namely Hastings Reef and Jorgeys Patch. For the second dive, we got in to a small dinghy boat and left for bit far from the main boat.


Inspiration

What Great Barrier Reef means to me? Hm... it’s a long story. When I was very small, probably 7 or 8 old, my parents brought me and my brother to see a documentary film at New Olympia (Colombo) on Great Barrier Reef. I and my brother were amazed with the beauty and were watching the film with surprise. Probably, I would have asked thousands of questions from my father. This film still comes to my mind like a fantasy seen in a distance. That’s the first inspiration of my life to see the Great Barrier Reef... probably I wanted to see that beauty for real. I kept on telling that I am going to see it one day. My father hasn’t been into many tough outdoor activities, but he encouraged us to do all; Cycling, swimming and hiking. Even he let us try climbing a coconut tree, though it was criticized by some of his own relatives. They would have thought that I might select it for living.

As soon as I came to the hotel, I dropped two short e-mails to my Mum and brother telling “I did it!” Unfortunately, my father is not there to share my joyful e-mail. So it is an emotional achievement for me.

While we were sailing back to the land, the Guy from Argentina who became friends with me was having some hot coffee with me. Coffee is the best pal after diving. While having a leisure chat, he asked what make I come this far for this diving. I told him about the documentary film and its inspiration. “This is for my Father and Mother who didn’t forget to guide us to nature, while confronting with all the day-to-day challenges!” I added. He wanted me to tell this story to his daughters.

One day, I will tell this to my daughter too.







No Complains.

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Senaka, Thanks for sending this in the morning and making my day a meaningful one.

Journalism and being the second vulture

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This is Kevin Cater’s most disturbing and award winning photo, which should be named as the photo of the century. More than the photo itself, Carters life and death come to my mind time to time. It is the ultimate tragic story of mankind… his death is a monument to the tragedy of replacing the human means with materialized objectives.


As a photo journalist he managed to capture the baby and vulture correctly in his camera. He did it, because that was his assignment there. He won the Pulitzer Prize for feature photography for his work. When thousands of people who were disturbed with the photo ask what happened to the child Carter didn’t have an answer. Then only it was realized that he just concentrated on taking the photo, but not helping the dying child. Also Carter had told his colleagues that he had been waiting to see if vulture would spread the wings; which would have given chance to a better photo! Later on Carter committed suicide by carbon monoxide poisoning.


Carter’s story just highlights the tragic of forgetting the primary responsibilities of a man.  Before you become a photographer, before you become a journalist you are a man and that’s never changed. You are not paid for that… you are not honored for that, but that’s the responsibility carry on your shoulder when you are born.

One critique on Carters photo redefined photographer as the second vulture in the scene. It is not unfair at all. Vulture in the photo is an opportunistic bird, and so is the photographer in that occasion. What is the difference….?

In context of Sri Lanka, we see propagating a lot of web media that reports and analyze social issues to gossips. In spite of the debut of credibility of some such media, we also find it difficult to understand the vision behind some of the reporting. When we had the war, of course we had to hear the bitter news of human deaths in day to day basis. Now war is over and we don’t need to hear those, unless as a news. When it is a brutal killing or raping happen, some media seems to be doing a good job by giving them a massive publicity… In most cases, like Kevin Carter’s photo, there seems to have had two (probably more) vultures by the name of journalism.

How many lives we actually got?

When discussing above post with someone, it raised us to the discussion of role of a photo journalist.  Some conclusions, more or less, were as below.

“What else photo journalist could do than taking the photos. He is not there to do the job of a welfare worker”

Then my mind raised the question to me. Then why Kevin got depressed by the comments. Why people around world kept on asking whether he helped the poor girl. This is a serious question to me. This puzzle drags me to think deeper about definitions of each role we play in life.

Sometimes we are pleased to say that we had to do something according to my profession. As a journalist I had to report that. As a soldier I had to kill. As a politician I had to decide that way. As a scientist I had to create an effective bomb. If you believe in God, what is the life you carry in your shoulders when you meet him? Can you exclude your professional life? Can I justify a crime by explaining it in terms of my profession? Is there any limit of this?

After 9/11 CIA hired two psychologists (i.e. Bruce Jessen and James Mitchell) to train UA servicemen on effective torturing methods, known as SERE programme, which is even against the Geneva conventions. May be Bruce or James could think, professionally they had to do that. Most of all, society accepts them not like a killer works under labelled terrorist organization.

This is a big question in my mind. I think “professional” label is another myth implemented by post capitalist system to justify something unethical. I know a chemist who work for manufacturing company of Baby oils, but never use them for her babies since they are bad for health. She was kind enough to tell all the friends not to use those kinds of oils. Anyway, “Professionally” she is making them for thousands of other babies... All other professionals too are to do these kinds of justified jobs.

In today’s context we even say you should not mixed up professional life and day-to-day life. This sounds like, what we do as “professionals” will be not be tolerated by the values of a day-to-day life that believes in mankind and humanity. Is it?

From recent years I have been thinking of unified systems as an answer for these contradictions of life. Though, I am not a historian, I am pretty sure ancient civilizations didn’t work with categorised objectives as we do today. Each ones goal is to be inter-connected. In Sri Lankan context, I believe ancient farming or manufacturing didn’t raised problems of environment. Can we claim a massive structure like Sigiriya would have destroyed the adjoining surroundings or its lives? I guess this harmony should have been same for all other early civilizations.

Today, Banker is interested in cash circulation and farmer is interested in fertile lands. Power generating companies interested only in generating power, but not the environmental pollutions. Environmentalists too are programmed to go against each and every development plan without knowing how their houses are provided with power and how their vehicles are supplied with fuel.

This funny system recalls me of my wedding! Photographer just wanted to have most successful photo sessions. Dress maker wanted to make a success by producing best bride and that’s her aspect of wedding. She was not interested in anything else than that. DJ wanted to make it a big music extravaganza and decorators wanted to bring most beautiful flower arrangements under this sun and moon. Individual goals seemed to be over ruling the main objective sometimes. Ultimately, I and my wife were the only people who wanted a successful wedding.

Even under this situations, sometimes some people work according to the call of their hearts.  I can recall two simple experiences I came across. When we head to tsunami affected areas in 2004 in Sri Lanka to help people, my friend, obsessed photographer, Roshan came without a camera which surprised me. He simply said “we are going to help people aren’t we?” Second occasion was.. my cousin, Kasun gave up aeronautical engineering after spending successful years in university, when he learnt all the leading researches are focused on advancement of fighter jets but not passenger planes.  In both occasions, they could have done the opposite since they have been justified by the civilization. Anyway, their hearts might have given a different judgement.

If we turn back to Kevin’s story, he should have had a struggle on his stance.  If he was a super product of post capitalist monetary system he shouldn’t have suffered from depression. If he was a super product of humane purity, he shouldn’t have left the toddler along with the vulture. Kevin’s tragic story can be quote close to our story also. Have to be wise when working with so called “professionalism” comes bundled with requirements of monetary system, not the requirements of mankind.

For me I have only one question. There are no many lives called professional life, family life and etc... I got only one life. Question is whether I live it truthfully to my heart or not.

True beauty of American Beauty

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American beauty is one of the nice movies I have ever seen. That’s not surprising because it’s an award winning movie. Anyway, its simplicity and context which aligns with the most wanton characteristics of fast moving life and its tragic consequences towards a family make me think more and more about ourselves. Though I use the ward “tragic”, this movie is not all about a tragic end, but it also opens an avenue for the simplest beauties of life which has nothing to do with lengthy philosophical means.

Beauty is just life...how you take it... as Lester (main character: middle aged magazine writer who faces a crisis) says at the end... “Today is the first day of rest of your life!”
I have watched this movie three times in three different stages of my life and grasped it in terms of different aspects. First I watched this soon after the first release when I was just out from the university. Honestly, what I enjoyed was the glamorous sexual fantasies Lester had on Angela who is a friend of his daughter. I should admit those scenes were beautifully done. And that’s it.



So this is all about glamorous dreams...

Then American Beauty was shown in Liberty Cinema for a little period when I was in late twenties. One of my friends (a photographer) wanted to go and see it and I was invited to join him. So I said I already watched and, as far as I can remember, it got some glamorous scenes, a half naked beautiful girl and so on... but there is nothing much to watch again.  Anyway, I watched it again with him and it started to open different window this time. Hmm.....  it’s not only Angela’s sexy body, but how the ambiance and reality of people contrasts each other. What are the different aspects of different people in same family, same neighbourhood? Is it worth to be in this frame defined with perspective of the community? It’s simple, yet a conversation where we are involved in.

See how Ricky captures the beauty of everything... why we missed this beauty in our life... does it need rocket science to see the beauty of something around you... this of course opened a new avenue in me..


Since we too were youthful and in our inventions of love, this scene too disturbed me so much. Lester decides to live the life at the moment. Now he is working in a burger store, no stress... no binding even. He simply wants his wife to be happy. If he really wish so, isn’t this the way he needs to behave. His coolness makes Carolyn (wife) mad.


So second time it all about how we look at things!

When I watch American Beauty for the third time, I had my little daughter on my lap. It gave me a big gravity. It made me further concerned about the life we are running. Are we going to forward this depressed life style to my little girl too on day? Nothing tells us Lester doesn’t love her daughter. We all are average and confused people in this horse race. So are the kids.


This time I understood the root cause of the issue of crisis of Lester’s family. It’s the stress. Stress made by jobs under current economic surroundings. Stress made by social structure. Stress made by routine work and so on...  While I understood that I am also in this arena, I got scared.

So third time, it is all about stress..

In fact, I need to see this movie again when my daughter is 16 old, in same age with Jane. Jane decides to flee with Ricky to a big City. City is not a safe place. It doesn’t save you from confusion. I am scared.

Of course, Angela’s half naked body is sexy and beautiful...  but that’s not the true beauty of American Beauty... It’s the beauty that we miss in our day to day life... most simple once... just like a plastic bag blows freely in the wind.

Contravention of Victorianism: Magam Soliya (මාගම් සෝලිය)

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(Published inThe Nation on 05th May 2013)

Almost five years back I wrote a review on a book called “Bodilima” (බෝදිලිමා) which was significantly different than what I had consumed as a Sinhala literature enthusiast. Its writer was Mohan Raj Madawala. Not only did I admire the bold decision of writing such a book, but harshly criticized the writer for joining a “popular culture” radio channel, as I learned later on. Though mass-media is a serious business, nowadays FM radio channels are based on different agenda. Soap operas (in our context “insurance operas” started by Nalan Mendis and Somaweera Senanayaka?) and their other elements have nothing to do with art. Of course, we all are sold to a market price today, I was particularly afraid that this acclaimed writer would not produce another literary piece due to the influence of the commercialization that comes bundled with popular culture. That’s my candid reason for criticism.

In my previous article, I called him “Sri Lankan Márquez” (referring to Gabriel García Márquez) which I don’t regret thus with his new novel, Magam Soliya. (මාගම් සෝලිය)  However, now it’s time to come out of that frame to have a fresh look at the new book.


Magam Soliya is a novel! In fact, it’s a new experience to read a novel of Madawala’s style. I glimpsed the book and had to reassure that I am going to read a novel of a very different style. If I put it in a nutshell, it’s quite heavy to mind as soon as started reading, but being forced to dig into it with interest.

As a novel

My way of enjoying his writing is, read a section and go deep in to the avenue opened through it. This gives me so many dimensions, symbolic means and emotions to start a dialogue with my own experience. When it comes to a novel, not like a short story, so many events with so many characters give me limitless spaces to surf. Definitely, it’s not guiding from one point and takes you to the end point which should be the climax by tradition. Of course writer tells a story to enjoy, but for me climax is everywhere.

For some crazy reason, I need this book to be a painting that’s hanging in a gallery. So that I am free to revisit and see what shakes me most. I can have different dialogues in different days.

Though the story is closely related to 1818 Uva-Wellassa uprising, it doesn’t give you the expected epic story. The historic event is only the canvas used to do this creation. Of course taking such a historic event has given enough room to give birth to a beautiful imagination. This imagination is not merely a fantasy, it’s a discussion propagated from past. Static nature of history becomes live with the imagination.

Natural evolution of art

One of the famous paintings of Picasso, Guernica, was meant to express the destruction occurred during the Spanish civil war. According to “evolution of art”, it's quite obvious, war of Afghanistan or Iraq will be expressed by a modern day artist in a different manner.  Guernica can’t be presented as an expression for current warfare. Of course both are wars, but not the same. Things become complicated by the time and artists enhance their framework and style to convey the upcoming realities. They usually struggle to express the current situation, not the past. Even if you look at Graffiti, you will see how they have become complex by the time. Will see how the frameworks are being enhanced by generations;

This is original painting;


This is a modified version by an artist who experienced the Iraq war;


The strangest part of Madawala’s exercise is, he is making a well-stretched contemporary framework made of his modern days life experience and applies back to an atmosphere which is about two centuries old. This is really exciting and challenging. What could be the philosophy of Madawala in this regards? Probably, wisdom (ප්රඥාව) given to him through the aftermath of political, social and cultural changes of last two centuries might have tempted him to look in to the historical events happened around 1818 in far different angle.  

Contrasting

Style used to write this novel seems not predefined. It is justifiable to say he is using magic realism genre, yet he hasn’t become a slave of it. He is confident of what he is creating in readers mind. I have never seen a Sinhala novelist who enjoys such a freedom in expressing. Through the book, he enlightened me of the length one can go with ordinary characters. Characters themselves are pretty normal, yet the way they are being handled is simply wonderful. It reminds me of a fluent painter using different brush strokes to make different textures using same basic colours. He uses “contrast” like a modern architect. This becomes writer’s passive mechanism of controlling the degree of emphasis. Ironically, reader gets an effortless flow. This free motion of characters ultimately contributes to the context of the story which shows the underlying discipline of the writer. Please consider below section;

“ගැහැණු දරුවා සිහින් කෙසග වුවත් පිරිමි දරුවා පුෂ්ටිමත් විය. එසේම සපුමලී සිනාසෙන විට හීන් සුරඹා ඇඬුවේය. හීන් සුරඹා නිදාගන්න විට සපුමලී ඇහැරී සිටියේය. සපුමලී වම් ඇලයට හැරෙන විට හීන් සුරඹා දකුණු ඇලයට හැරුනේය. හීන් සුරඹා උඩ බලාගෙන කෑ ගහන විට සපුමලී බිම බලාගෙන නිශ්ශබ්දව සිටියාය.”

Also I realise the “contrast” in between different sexual relationships explained in the story. Sexual relationship in between Walli (වල්ලි) and Podi Nilame (පොඩි නිලමේ) is an aggressive encounter. On the other hand, relationship in between Manika (මැණිකා) and Bindu (බිංදු) is more likely an act of healing or merely a meditation.

Usage of sexuality

Also I believe, when the writer discusses about the sexuality, he flies over the boundaries of civilization and recreates it as an incomparable ultimate phenomenon of nature. It’s the lifeline of mankind. Please read the below sections that drags me to this thought;

“...තමාද තම දරුවා මෙන්ම ඇගේ කුස තුලින් ඊට පෙර දවසක ඒ තිඹිරි ගෙදරදීම උත්පත්තිය ලබන්නට ඇතැයි ඔහුට සිතුනේය. පුදුමයකට මෙන් ඒ සිතිවිල්ල ඔහුට පුදුම ආශ්වාදයක් ගෙන ආවේය.“

Writer is unifying the mankind through sex; it’s beyond our traditional view point.

“මැනිකාත් බිංදුත් අතර වූ මේ සමාගමය, ඔවුන්ගේ සිරුරු අභිබවා ඔවුන්ගේ හැඟීම් අභිබවා ඔවුන්ගේ ගැහැණු පිරිමි බවත්, වයසත් අභිබවා ඉහලට විහිදුනු ආශ්චර්යමත් නිකලෙස් සමාගමයක් වුනේය.“

Though it is controversial, see how writer is trying to link spiritual journey of a man with sexuality.

“සැබැවින්ම ඔහු මෙතෙක් භාවනානුයෝගී ධ්යානයෙන් ලඟා වූ සමාධි සුවය සහ ඒ විශ්වීය ශක්තිය, ආදරයේ දිව්යමය ප්රතික්රියාවක් හරහා සිදුවූ ලිංගික රමණය තුලින්ද ළඟා කර ගනිමින් සිටියේය.”

Ideology

Now we will look into this piece of literature by ideological mean. Entire story is mainly lying within the space of suppression made by the political atmosphere of British administration and its consequences. Story is also emphasising the acts of human nature that transforms to a major change. We know how the Kandian kingdom was affected by controversies that created as root level acts led to major events such as tragedy of Ahalepola (ඇහැලේපොල).

Some of the abstract concepts used in the book are very powerful. Power of man is centralised within his male sexual organ and that symbolise the importance of self-confidence and personality. That asset is only gained through the breast milk of a noble woman. Isn’t it a beautiful and powerful concept?

Though Abiththa Unnanse (ඇබිත්ත උන්නාන්සේ) is the main character, I see an exceptional beauty and meaning through Podina’s (පොඩිනා) character. Though she hasn’t slept with any man throughout her life, she’s blessed with magical milk in her breast. That is due to her commitment as a self-appointed village midwife who has been the livewire for countless births. Nothing beats the need of a birth in nature. It is the decision making factor of existence. Doesn’t she deserve the magical milk in her breast? Even the biggest empire (Great Britain) of the world can’t beat the power of her milk.

If not for the Wellasse people, this book could have been respectfully forwarded to the midwives of entire country who gave birth to the nation for generations, yet been unseen and unnoticed!

One of the other symbolic characters I like is Sedara (සේදරා). He becomes an ideal victim of tactical war of British administration. His assets are being tactically looted. He becomes a slave of alcohol. First he behaves like a hero, but he becomes lifeless when real war erupts. Soldiers don’t kill him; he was just left because it was obvious he is not going be a threat by any mean. Even today invaders prefer lifeless people than dead people!

“..සේදරා සිටියේ පරඩලක් ගානට කෙට්ටු වී අඳුරගන්න බැරුවය. ඉස්සර අඩුම තරමේ අරක්කු බෝතලයක්වත් බී දඩ මස් ගාත් තුන හතරකට වග කියූ කාලයේ ගෙදර උලුවස්සකින් හැරෙන්නවත් බැරි තරමට උස මහත් වී සිටි සේදරා සොල්දාදුවන් කටින් හුලං පිම්ඹ විට ඈතට විසිවී බිම ඇදගෙන වැටුණේය.”

Culture was the primary target of colonialism. These encounters are invisible yet more destructive. Today, aboriginal people in Australia could provide living proofs for typical end result of such a master plan. Once I peeped in to a public bar in Northern Queensland and saw a lot of aboriginal people, likely to have reached the fate of Sedara! Community with oldest cultural heritage of entire world has become rootless in their own land by the sake of modern civilization!!

I don’t expect to see the character of Abdul (අබ්දුල්). Though his role means a lot to the story, it is presented in a very traditional manner. Abdul’s character can be easily copied in to a book like “Sudu Sewanali” (සුදු සෙවනැලි) of Piyadasa Welikannage, without many modifications. When creating the character Abdul, writer seems to have missed his style he used to compile all other characters. It’s a raw character. As I heard, due to religious constrains, usually Muslim merchants didn’t interfere with alcohol business (රේන්ද කර්මාන්තය) that much which also should have been considered. 

Authenticity

One of the other major hurdles of writing such a book focusing a historical event is building the assurance of authenticity. Though, I keep insisting that writer is recreating his imagination, I am also urging that canvas which is being used, is the real historical event. For this, writer has definitely studied the social, cultural and political facts of that era thoroughly. Words which are being used assure it. I like the dialogues that take me back to history. Check below phrases;

“තව ඩිංගිත්තක් අපට ඕන”

“මේ තමයි පුතේ උඹේ අප්පුච්චා”

“ඒයි ඉලන්දාරියා මෙහෙ වර..”

Most of all, writer utilises his influence of folk stories and history to impress the timing of the story and the culture which is surrounded. Bindu’s character reminds me of some folk stories about the propagation of King Rajasinghe II who was one of the heroic kings of the Kandiyan kingdom.
Please read below section;

“..බිංදු හිටි පියවරින් අහසට පැන වටේට කැරකී අතින් සහ පයින් පහර දුන්නේය.”

If you are familiar with heroic Sinhala folk stories of 15th to 18th centuries, you may realise our kind of a martial art is explained here. This also reminds me of folk stories of dynasty of Galagoda Disawe (ගලගොඩ දිසාව) who were ruling Uwa as Mahadisawa (මහ දිසාව) for generations in Kandian kingdom.

Reflection

In summary, Magam Soliya is a research; result yet to be revealed by readers. Madawala is taking an immense challenge by presenting such a book to Sinhala reading community considering the fact that appreciation of literature hasn’t been taken seriously by current education system.

This book is addressing a historical event through a different style which is a new experience for the reader.  I feel that the writer uses magic realism like style to contravene Victorianism which has been fossilised in reader’s mindset. As most historians reveal Victorian tradition has made us slaves without chains; probably the biggest emotional barrier for our personality. Even the context focuses on character we need to have in us to face colonialism or today’s hegemony.

He is walking through the shrubs and dust of history to grasp unnoticed elements with utmost care which will be used to light the wisdom of future. He is experimenting and getting equipped with potent tools.

Within the reviews;

Country roads take me home..

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Probably, the Great Barrier Reef is the best thing I ever found in Australia. So I really wanted to explore it since day one. My first time in the reef in 2012 was amazing. In fact, it was like meeting a pen-pal because I could imagine how it look like before seeing. I had already done my research, seen videos and etc. Yet, my next tour in 2013 was a total disaster. As soon as I landed from Cairns airport and reached the hotel, I heard the news of my worst nightmare: region was expected to be hit by a hurricane and no one was allowed to jump in to sea. Only thing I could do was just snorkeling in Green Island once the weather improved, yet water was still murky. After another year I realized that I am ready for an expedition; a bit more adventurous one. So I decided to sail up to the ribbon reefs about 100 miles away from Cairns. That means I am going to live in a boat for few days.

Due to my personal reasons I didn't have much time to plan or wait for the right season... Ok, no worries…I am going to do this in winter! Then I headed to Cairns the day before I am going to start the expedition and stayed in a backpacker’s hostel. Next day, started the expedition in the boat called Spoilsport. She is a majestic looking gentle giant with purposely built diving deck and facility for underwater photographers. Anyway, when I boarded the boat, again I had to start with a bad news from Nick, who is the diving director.


"Guys, we got a kind of bad news.. Forecast shows that sea is going to be choppy in  the coming days"

Ok, you tell whatever you want.. But I am not going empty handed this time.. I came to dive and shoot the reef. I told to myself.

On board was interesting bunch of people from countries such as Australia, USA, Japan, New Zealand, Colombia and etc. Most of them were scholars while I became the only boring IT guy. My cabin mate was a quite strange looking diver from Georgia who never smiles or hardly show any emotion. He has been a marine corp. with combat experience who later on moved to a far different living; growing flowers! By the way, one thing common for us… we both were solo travelers! John spoke Spanish too, in fact he became friends with two young doctors from Colombia.

Then I was shocked to know my strobe (Underwater Camera flasher) was faulty. It was discovered in my first dive which was done in one of the most famous dive sites in GBR called Codhole. That name was given to the site because you find huge Potato Cods quite frequently. Problem with the strobe was, it worked some occasions, but failed next moment. I had to bear the bitter truth of problems I have with shooting. I am literally hundreds of miles away from the main land to shoot underwater yet my gear is mal-functioning! May be I will have to make my mind to grab what is in store for me, if not photography.

As Nick mentioned, it was the worst choppy sea Spoilsport encountered in months. Diving was actually a challenge for me though it was different for ex-marine corp., John. Always, we had to go down using the anchor line, otherwise we would end up drifted to open ocean and it will not be a nice experience. One important piece of gadgets we carried due to this condition was a powerful GPS device. Transmitter is capable of sending signals with relevant GPS coordinates to captain’s cabin or even to any other boat within 200 nautical miles. Still you have to be conscious enough to operate it wisely. Water temperature was not unbearable. Still you can get hypothermia if it happened to stay in water for extended periods of time. In person, I took this opportunity to check my stamina as a diver in inhospitable conditions.


In terms of shooting, my strobe was sometimes kind enough to allow me shooting… in fact, I made 110% from my side ending up shooting few good shots including few Clown fishes, shark, Stonefish and more wide angles with different reef formations. I am happy about it. Failure of strobe may have taught me another lesson. You have to expect failure and need to accept it. Most of all I had the rare opportunity of shooting under the guidance of world class photographer, Julia Summering. She was kind enough to share her vast knowledge yet humble enough to admire the work of armatures too. In her career, she had contributed to National Geographic and Discovery channels.

We had to sail even in the night to reach some of the remote areas of GBR. When sea was so bumpy, furniture and other stuff was tied, otherwise they would move here and there resulting even injuries. Sleeping was a far cry when the boat moved up and down like a roller-coaster. I was even scared falling down from my bunker bed, which is the smallest bunker bed I have ever slept on.

One other great dive site was called Steve’s Boomies. It is one of the most beautiful reefs I have ever seen… full of fishes in reef formation consist of a massive boulder raised high from the sea bed. We plunged in to it in early morning and sunlight was still entering the waters giving it heavenly colours. Anyway, the sea current was so strong and we had to make a big effort to stay still. I was sometimes thrown away with the force of the current. Before jumping, divers were also warned about venomous Stonefishes. Their venom is said to be one of the most painful ones. I was lucky enough to shoot one of these mysterious looking creatures.

Steve’s Boomies has got a sad story of its own. There had been a nice young diver called Steve who loved this area and dived there so often with his friends. Later, Steve has died (there are different theories, but the most believed one was a Motorbike accident) untimely, putting all his friends in to utter sorrow. Those friends created a granite plaque carving Steve’s name on it and placed down the sea bed he loved most. Anyone who dives today too can see this lonely plaque with Steve’s name on it.

After a hard day of diving, spending time on the deck looking at the vast ocean and vanishing light of the sun was an exciting experience. For some reason, it gave me some unexplained sadness. I became the smallest living object under the dark sky. It tends to make you to think over and over again about our own existence and its meaning. It’s a special feeling.


By the final day, even with many obstacles, I had managed to do some good photography which made me thrilled. By then, everybody knew each other well. That evening was a special one by all means. Main event was the announcement of winners of the photo contest. If my gear was in order, I knew I would have aimed to be admired of my work. By this time I knew I was out of the competition, yet I had the slightest hope of being at least 2nd runner-up, if luck is in my favor.

Julia started the presentation, explaining ups and downs of few photos, then announced the winners. 2nd runner-up was Christine, who was a University lecturer from New Zealand. Once I heard her name, I was sure that I am not going to have anything. That’s alright, I should be still proud of my courage to come this far alone and brave enough to participate in this exercise with many pros.

Then Dana’s name was told as the 1st runner-up. I knew she deserves it, because I was down there when she captured a beautiful shot of a Sea-snake. You should be very clever to shoot them because they move very fast, leaving you no second chance. Dana was a middle aged lady travelling with her husband who wasn’t a diver, but accompanying her and helping her work. This nice American couple had shared their life stories with me previous night. Everybody got their own stories, which are different, yet close to yours in some way.

Then suddenly I heard my name from somewhere like in a dream…

“First place…. goes to ….  Sume..dh..aa…” and she was struggling to say my surname. I couldn’t believe myself. Yet, this should be true… I was witnessing the photo of Clown-fish taken by me on the wide screen. That was the moment of truth… when I got up, everybody clapped so loudly. For some reason, audience sensed my emotional state I believe. I didn’t know what to do, yet suddenly, without any intension, I took my two hands together (like saying Ayubowan in Sinhala tradition) and bowed them. I was on top of the world. When I sat again, Dana came to me and congratulated. I wished I had my family around me, yet they were thousands of miles away.


Then as I was returning from my Cabin, party had begun. Captain of the boat was an amazing guitarist. I can remember, when I entered the deck they started playing Country Roads by John Denver. I was looking at the fading sun of the horizon. No one on the deck saw my eyes being getting heavier and heavier with tears.


All in a sudden I was a small kid and walking on a road in Colombo... myself and my brother was holding hands with Mother and Father…  we were excited to go to the movie theatre which comes ones in a while.. Especially in salary days... father was telling us… “But this is not a story you know” …this is a documentary about a beautiful ocean... It’s called Great Barrier Reef…

Country road… take me home…

Balinese experiance

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Within many aspects of traveling, I enjoy the connection with people along the way. In my recent travel to Bali was of no difference when it comes to the joy of meeting new people and listening to their stories.

Bala was the Taxi driver who took us to the Airport. He was a Sri Lankan Born Australian guy: generous and talkative. He keeps his Taxi like a Temple. My biggest worry was if my kids make this brand new looking car a mess within few minutes. Even in winter, he gets up at 5am to wash the car before taking to the road. He shared his touching story with us.

“We didn’t have kids for a long time… we tried everything. After some time we were blessed with a baby boy. We named him Prasanna. We were in Colombo very happily… but everything changed like a bad dream. It was the time Sri Lanka had continuous power cuts. One of the Vaccinations administered to Prasanna had been in the refrigerator during a power cut, resulting intoxication. Prasanna left us!”

“Then we moved to Australia and started to live forgetting our fateful lost. Then we realized we badly need kids somehow. You know Sumedha.. our relatives and friends were really good at hurting us by reminding that we don’t have kids. Then in some point, we went to India spending everything we had and leaving my job, in search of a remedy for our problem. You know we are now blessed with twins.. we got  two boys now!… we lost every penny.. but we found happiness.. with this Taxi business we are starting again”

“You know what.. now my relatives and friends are reminding me about other things I don’t have.. house of my own and other luxuries… ”

Bala wished us safe journey and promised to pick us on our way back.

Even before leaving the Sydney Airport, we started to make more friends. Actually, it was my daughters who exchanged their cheeky smiles with a matured couple who ended up being friends and helped us planning the coming days since it was our first time in Bali. Glen and Angi were matured couple who spend their winter in Bali, escaping the cold weather of Sydney.


The hotel we stayed was a sister hotel of the hotel, Basaki, where Glen and Angi had their own apartment. In fact, we met few times in Basaki beach where we liked their company so much. Though Glen was much older to me, he was a good company, person full of sense of humor.

“My heart valve was replaced with pig’s valve. You know pigs don’t have much life span, so then it was replaced with a Cow’s. Now the problem is different. Cow’s body is active throughout the day and night since it continues to chew the grass even in the night. As humans when we have a good sleep in the night, reactivation is a problem because this valve is not prepared for that. Doctor advised me two ways of reactivating the valve… do a good workout in a Gym.. if its running, you need to run 2kms. Second one is doing sex…  You know Sumedha, very next day Angi gave me a surprising present…guess what..  a Gym Membership!”

Glen had many more stories like this. He also introduced me to many locals and Angi helped Sawanthi to find out good places for shopping. If you start shopping without your homework, experience may not be good. Some places even reminded me of World Market in Pettah, Colombo. You will definitely pushed by traders to buy unwanted stuff, twice the price. Bali of course reminds you of Colombo in many aspects.


Balineise locals are friendly and helpful people. They are Hindu’s (though different from Hindus we find in Sri Lanka/India) who are very religious. In fact, their life is devoted for a religious life. Some Balinese housewives used to visit Temple three times a day. Most houses have their own small temple within the house premises.


As I heard, people who moved to Bali from the main land with the intention of earning money in various means related to tourism are the people who try to trick you in most cases. One of the most incredible abilities they got is identifying first timers. Within hundreds of people taxi driver will spot the new travelers and try to sell his service. There are a lot of westerners live in Bali, well-adapted.


Our driver who took us to Rice terraces in mountains was a very friendly young guy called Putu. He was not only providing the chauffer service, but giving us all kinds of important cultural and historical details on attractions. If necessary he is also looking after our daughters while we are busy enjoying the new found interesting things. Putu loves kids and knew how to be friendly with them. He is newly wedded and waiting badly to have a baby of his own. Before marrying he has worked as a barman in one of the luxury cruisers enabled him visiting many parts of the world. On our day tour we had lunch in one of the exclusive local restaurants, very Balinese style. We invited Putu to join us and he was seemed quite honored and emotional. We realized it’s not the case in other occasions.


One other interesting thing in Indonesia is Luvak Coffee. Luvak is a mongoose like animal kept in cages in coffee plantations. Coffee beans are given them as food. Then droppings are being collected, where you find coffee beans as they were, in same nutty shape. They are then used to make special coffee called Luvak coffee which is one of the most expensive ones in the world. Its taste was bit more smoky for me.


After enjoying all these newfound serendipities in Bali, we headed back to Sydney in Gauruda Indenesia Air Line with nothing but amazingly friendly staff. Sydney Air Port was so crowded in the early morning as usual and we had to spend hours in the queues. Girls were exhausted with lack of sleep.

Then we saw one of the great scenes someone at that situation could ever imagine…  It was Bala with tray of Coffee on his hands in the arrival gate…  Good morning Guys.. welcome back to Sydney!

Dive Log - Upath Diyamba Gala

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Upath Diyamba Gala is a new diving site in Hikkaduwa and we started this seasons with diving in to it. Site was average by every means. Even though visibility was not that favorable we managed to notice some fishes.

Malfunctioning diving gear!

Anyway, I was not happy with the dive at all because I had to start the dive with some difficulty. When I start descend, I found water coming in to my mouth through the mouthpiece. So I came up again and position the mouthpiece (of second stage) correctly again in my mouth and started to descend, but nothing changed. Then I did one of the biggest mistakes I have ever done in water.. start breath fast with small volumes of air in an increasing momentum which lead me to "lack of oxygen" in body. Actually this is medically an "asphyxiation". I came up again and informed this to the captain of the boat but his advice was what I tried a couple of times already. Anyway, then I switched to alternative air source and get problem solved. While I was doing all the struggle, other buddies were waiting down the anchor line wondering what has happened to me.. That’s the poor start. Anyway, dive was quite good at the end. Anyway, you should never dive if you are not sure about equipment.

I managed to do some swimming though the reef with a snorkel and found a lot of fishes near the coast and that was a good sign.

Diving in Colombo

I guess divers are amazed to hear that a lot of new diving sites have been identified just near Colombo. This is wonderful news and all the credit should go to divers who worked hard to identify those. One stop online diving guide has exposed them here.

Hope of the east

Since, east is now attracting lots of travelers; new diving stations are to be located in east side also. This is a good new too. This makes us dive throughout the year.

Fed up with monetary system?

Loss of a true environmentalist !

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I was so shocked to hear the demise of Piyal Aiya. Mr. Piyala Parakrama had finished his crucial role in Sri Lankan environmental conservation arena, on early this month. It is always sad to hear deaths of good people in times they are needed most..

I first met him when I was a school boy while organizing an activity for world environment day. I think that’s soon after he returned to country completing his studies at Lumbumba Friendship University. Piyal Aiya soon became a very helpful resource to our school environment society.

Afterwards, I identified him as a person with a genuine need to fight back against the ongoing environmental issues. He held a number of positions in various organizations, but as a person he was not bound with any organizational framework. He believed something and he bravely worked to achieve it. That’s his passion.. he worked with government to achieve something, but next day he could be seen in a rally against the government to show his disagreement towards something..

Last time I met him at Jayawardenapura Hospital when I was rushing to see my father who was in critical condition. Piyal Aiya had come to some other matter, but he joined me to visit my father. He wished my father a fast recovery and treated him with his unique pleasant smile...!

I think, Piyal Aiya’s loss is for the country.. Nature and Humanity..

Very sadly, we have to say Bye to this noble person, untimely!

Ban Ki Moon, the defense secretary of USA !

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Many people has slammed the US saying it has blood on its hands after a shocking video showed a US aircraft firing indiscriminately towards civilians in Iraq killing atleast 25 of them including two journalists.

Please watch this video.



Now western media together with other intellectuals has started to discuss the impact of existence of the media like Wikileaks in terms of the threat to the national security of powerful governments. Authenticity/ truth of the video is not seems to be taking in to consideration by any of the entities including UN, who is having the responsibility.


Being the first nation in the world who truly irradicated terrorism, Sri Lanka is still suffering from various allegations bombarded from westerners. We need to ask Mr.Moon who is so enthusiastic in that practice, what he is going to do for this even after murderer was caught with bloody hands.

Free media and human rights are two main themes used by powerful governments initiated by US intelligence to interfere in third world countries in order to break their economies. Now it is our time to see how Mr. Obama and Mr. Ban Ki Moon would sit together and sort this out.. Whatever the stories created by them will be spread by western media like nothing.

I personally think, UN hasn’t been this fail in credibility of their work in the past.

This is truly pathetic and dangerous.

Diving in Bali – A lesson learnt

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Though, I was so excited on diving in Bali, I didn’t believe it would be this eventful and memorable for the incident I narrowly escaped from. Anyway, I am safe, learnt the lessons and now able to document what happened that day.

I knew Bali offer both big fish as well as small macro subjects. I was particularly interested in macro subjects and got a new focus light ordered from USA, a new addition to my photography set-up, which arrived on time. Its June,2017 and all set for the next expedition.

My first diving was planned to do in Padang Bay area which got a big reputation on different macro subjects such as Sea Horses, rare Scorpion Fishes species and etc. Diving in murky waters in search of small subjects (Muck Diving) is not for everyone. So I had to charter a vehicle as well as a boat of traditional Balinese style for us to reach the dive sites. Padang Bay is a small fishing village in a Bay and not many divers seemed to have attracted to. Though day was rainy and gloomy, I managed to dive while taking photos of wonderful marine creatures I had never seen anywhere before. I managed to captured the photos of Sea Horses, Devil faced Scorpion fish, Leave fish, Frog Fish and many more.


One thing, I wanted to say about these dives are I used more Oxygen than usual percentage to increase the bottom time. This technique is called Nitrox diving. While this gives benefits to the diver, it comes with another trade-off which is the limitation of depth. Exceeding the depth limits could result Oxygen toxicity; a potential fatal consequence. In other terms, divers who use Nitrox should adhere to the recommended limitations.


Anyway, story was different in my next mission of photographing big fishes which was planned to do near the island called Nusa Penida. I was already advised by dive master Steve about heavy currents we could encounter and I got prepared myself. Anyway, I had a wired feeling when I saw the name of the diving boat, Halloween!


As a classical maritime expedition enthusiast, I knew one of the ships Sir John Franklin sailed and end up with great tragic was called HMS Terror


I got in to the diving boat Halloween and sailed with my dive master and another team of Dutch divers lead by a very experienced diving instructor. First we dived in a site full of boulders and strong current going through them making room for a cleaning station for Manta Rays. This place was called Manta Point. Visibility wasn’t great, but I managed to capture few descent pictures of Mantas.


Once I got into the boat for surface interval I felt it was pretty cold and wind was strong, but I hadn’t brought any jacket to warm myself. Mistake number one! Second dive was planned to do in a site called Crystal Bay.

During the dive in Crystal Bay, we had to sneak through a very cold current which made me feel really cold and chilly, but I made my mind thinking it will be fine soon. When we were about to end the dive, all in a sudden a Sun Fish (locals called Mola Mola) appeared from a depth and we all were astonished to see it. Then I thought I should try to take some photos.

What happened to me next was not something I can explain alone, but with Steve’s point of view. As we suspected later on, I may have developed Hypothermia by then, due to exposure to the too much coldness. Trying to take photos of the Sun Fish had brought me to a deep trench alone with the fish itself. I couldn’t observe anything since background of the fish was just blue and seascape was behind me, leaving no physical reference to feel I am moving deeper. My dive computer had beeped repetitively since its fed with information including my Oxygen percentage (33%), but I may have ignored it due to the confusion state resulted by Hypothermia. Even Steve had tried to stop me without any success.

Then all in a sudden some diver reached me and signaled to ascend. This was the fateful moment for me and, for some luck, or good karma, I started to realize everything happened to me including ignoring of dive computer alerts and etc. It was like my consciousness was re-established in 11th hour. I knew I was in danger and I managed to check my air levels and do the needful steps to safely ascend.

What really has happened was, I had ignored my buddy, Steve’s signals and gone down with the fish. Suddenly, Steve had realized he can’t follow me either, since his Oxygen percentage was higher than mine. He could reach the death zone of Oxygen toxicity sooner than me. Then he had searched for Dutch diving instructor who was diving with normal air (20% Oxygen, allow dive deeper, but for a short period of time) and asked him to go and get me. For my great luck, his signal became an eye opener for me.


After all, we three had a lengthy discussion based on each other’s observation and circumstance and tried to understand what may have happened. From my side, I had to assure, I had never been an irresponsible diver; no such history of mine. We had to believe Hypothermia may have affected my consciousness. One lady diver from Dutch team also had witnessed me almost shivering during the surface interval.

When I went back to my family... My elder daughter came to me and ask how was the diving..as usual..

“It was fun!” I said.

That evening, I had a Balinese Beer in the beach looking at the fading sun in horizon…my family was sitting around me. I felt the preciousness of life. It was a kind of universal feeling that was floating above the day-to-day life and entities. I still try to contemplate the unfamiliar shape of that feeling.

Exploring Kudumbigala

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Kudumbigala is one of the wonderful places I have ever explored. It is an old monastery which had been re-discovered in recent past. Most fascinatingly, it has become one of the most interior monasteries, where Theravadhi Buddhist monks are occupying under very basic facilities. They just focus on their meditation and ignore the life threats that would come at anytime through a wild animal, especially from sloth bears. They just live a very basic life in the monastery, which is surrounded by bushes and beasts. They say that they are not attacked by any of the animals since they practice the meththa of Buddhist teaching all the way.

Kudumbigala is a very beautiful place with extraordinary tranquility and peaceful surrounding. It had been built in a land of boulders that provides caves, which had been converted into isolated facilities for meditation. Apart from what monks are using currently, there are ruins of very big constructions all over. The whole site is an artistic creation. Historical value of this site is to be revealed by historians and take the necessary steps to protect those artifacts.

Re-discovery of the site had been done by Thambugala Ananda Thero, who first visited the site in 1954. I simply can’t imagine his determination because he had started to stay there alone for years. His famous book “25 Years of life in the jungle” explains his wonderful experiences in wild.

As we did, one can plan an expedition to visit Kudumbigala and Kumana together. There are a lot of other fascinating places in the area, such as Okanda beach and the famous kovil. We spent a couple of nights in the monastery and spent one camping night in banks of Kumbukan River (Near Gal Amuna). Kumana is another massive site which always gives me a mysterious feeling.

Remaining of Kumana village recalled me the last chapters of the famous novel “Village in the Jungle” by Leonard Woolf. Village which had been the background for that novel, Baddegama too said to have vanished within the bushes of the jungle….!

Below Photos were captured by Roshan Kumara.


Okanda Beach


Thambugala Thero’s book was referred on the way…




Dr. Aruna is preparing some Beetles for chief monk.


Devotees use to come there for almsgivings..


Sri Lankan Sand Boa (Kota pimbura) Gongylophis conicus brevis.


Okanda Kovil






Remainings of famous Bambaragasthalawa Buddha Statue..




Kumana Willuwa


Kumbukkan Oya








Pledge to go fur-free!

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Consumers everywhere need to know the truth about fur. When people learn that millions of innocent animals are beaten, boiled, hanged, and electrocuted for their fur every year ... when they learn that every fur coat, lining, trim, or fur cat toy represents the intense suffering of several dozen animals? and when they learn that furriers intentionally mislabel fur as not taken from dogs and cats or as fake ... then every decent human being will want to go FUR-FREE.

Peta.org is working to educate people of the world about this barbaric trade. If you want to see the real situation please check the Videos in the site. You will be shocked.

Please make sure you are not supporting this trade by any mean.
Please sign the pledge.

Nuwara Gala – a hidden fortress

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One of the old posts, I discussed my experience with Dimbulaga exploration. It should be one of the hidden fortresses like places in Sri Lanka. There is another rock full of ruins of a massive fortress and this is also a hidden one by means, till today. Now we are going to talk about “Nuwara Gala”.

In my school days, once I am given a very nice book about expeditions by a team of wildlife enthusiasts, who tried to explore nice natural places of Sri Lanka. Actually that book made me interested in hiking and nature expeditions. This book was almost a basic guide book to young people who wish to explore such beautiful places. Mr. Douglass B. Ranasinghe (a reputed bird watcher and wildlife enthusiast)* is the author of this book called “Maki Yana Wana Peth” (i.e. vanishing trails). It contained a chapter that illustrates how they explored this massive yet hidden site a long time back.

It took us decades to do the same expedition, since the relevant area was highly affected by the LTTE terrorist activities. Anyway, we headed to this wonderful site in 2002 sepetember, when it was the ceasefire and quite safe to enter the location.


First, we went to Pollebeddha School to prepare our stuff and spend the night before starting the hike early next day. It was a very nice place and principal too was a very nice gentleman. The Vedda chief Gomba came to see us in the same evening when he got to knew that some people had come from Colombo. He was so old than we saw in pictures in the book. When he was having a leisure chat, he revealed about his interactions with Dr. Spittle and good old time stories. Most of all, he told how much he miss Dr.Spittle and he at least wanted to see his daughter.

Old Chief Vaddha, Gomba was telling me his good old stories..


There is something else I want to note here: These Veddha’s life conditions seemed so pathetic. Their lives had been vastly affected by poverty. May be due to lack of knowledge on family planning, their families had become unbearably big, yet they didn’t have any means of earning money to feed them. We just shared some of the food we brought, but it showed the need of a long term rehabilitation program for this community. Not like Veddas of Dambana, this community seemed to have a lack of knowledge on outside world and lack of communication with authorities.

After a couple of years, I saw in the newspapers, that Gomba had been awarded the Kala-Bhooshana award for his contribution towards the culture of Sri Lanka. Of course, it is admirable since they carry some historical and vanishing cultural values to Sri Lankan society, but steps are to be taken to improve their living standards too.

We started the hike the following day with two guides from the village, namely Wijeya and Sadhathissa. Wijaya was an expert on jungle life with unbelievable instinct. He said he was hunting animals for his living. He was with a mysterious and weather beaten face. Our theories on wildlife conservation seemed inapplicable for these people who have day to day confrontations with bitter poverty. We walked behind him and he was leading the team; walked without any noise or talk; carrying his illegal shot gun. Each time, we met a wild animal, Wijaya managed to give us notice in advance! I think he had very much developed ability to smell or hear those in a distance. Sadhathissa was a much talkative small-made person who managed to tell us their experiences with wildlife and some narrow escapes from terrorists!

Under the shades of terrorism, tree-cutting had been done massively and naked earth had been exposed to intense heat of sunlight which made our walking too so difficult, when it was reaching noon.

Our initial plan was to go up to the top of the rock and see the historical pool full of clear water and then we spend the night in the nearby cave right down the ridge of mountain facing a dangerous looking steep.

We had done a big mistake by relying on one spring of water. When we reached, it had been dried and drinking water we carried was not enough to spend two days! I was already dehydrated, that made me difficult to move further. Anyway, we decided to find some more sources for water but I said I need to sit and rest so others could proceed with searching. Due to the threat of wild elephants in the area, keeping me alone for resting seemed foolish and Dr.Nihal volunteered to stay with me with some fire-crackers to use in case. Anyway, search hadn’t been successful, but we came up with the bright idea of using the water in the pool up on the rock for drinking after boiling. I felt much better after some rest and consuming some dried date fruits and Jeewani. We reached the top of the fortress around 3 pm and it was a fantastic feeling!

It was quite hard to believe that a man made pool full of water could remain in such a high altitude. This was a marvelous piece of evidence for the prosperity and high life style existed in the past within the fortress. Mr.Ranasinghe’s book says that water was so pure that they managed to have a nice bath in it, but we saw the pool had been infected with algae and bathing was impossible.

We heard a very strange story from Sadhathissa which explained how this pond got polluted. It was as below;

It was 1989, where whole country was having a dark time with the rise of young generation against the government. We were coming towards Nuwara Gala for a hunt.. When we reached the top we saw some uniformed people are occupying there.. we also saw a helicopter and few civil people and I identified one of the famous politicians son within them… in a little time those armed people started shooting at us.. We vanished through the bushes and came straight to the village and hide… After that we observed they had tried to pump water out and find something… we didn’t know whether it was treasure, anyhow water within the pool got polluted after this incident!” (Note :I can’t guarantee about the truth of this, but this is what I was told)

After spending some time near the pool we came to the cave and spent the night. It was a Poya day and night was as amazing as could be. View of the jungle towards the steep was like a water color painting.. moon light had given a fantastic glittering effect which made us watching it for a long time before going to sleep.

Next day, we came back in a different route which was rich with most of the ruins and rich historic structures.
Night I spent in Nuwara Gala cave is one of the best nights I have ever spent in wild!


Team before starting the hike (with Vijaya, Sadhatissa, Gomba, Principal and another teacher of the school)

Man-made pool on the top of the rock.


Valuable artifacts to be studied by archeologists

Dangerous yet, beautiful steep down the cave



Note
* After sometime, Dr.Nihal Dayawansa introduced us to Mr. Douglass B. Ranasinghe and we told him how his book infected us with enthusiasm for exploring the wild. We also managed to discuss and compare the changes we saw in Nuwara Gala after decades. We wanted to visit this site again as an one group consist of both generations, but couldn’t materialize it till today.

Eco Tourism and Responsibilities

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Once I was passing Galle, I saw a large gathering who is watching some different kind of a game. I identified both local and foreign players playing elephant-polo with assistance of mahouts. That game seemed funny, because some of the elephants were not aware what was going on but mahouts had to drag them to the ball and do according to so called players’ wish. Some elephants were seen exhausted and frustrated. Anyway, I was thinking this is a very inappropriate try. We should not drag our majestic looking elephants to this pathetic situation. Elephant is a cultural symbol and I don’t like to see it as a funny puppet. So this was my vision on Elephant Polo.




After sometime back I heard that an elephant had become so violent during such a game at Galle. This simply supplied a proof that Elephants were actually not playing the game but they had been forcefully dragged to the ground. This is not the way we should treat wild animals. I guess, after this incident Elephant-Polo wasn’t tried. (Please correct me if I am wrong) So this should be taken as a warning message for people who think of ways to use animals to earn some dollars by the sake of eco-tourism.



Elephant is giving its message in a violent manner!


 


Responsibility

Eco-tourism is a very good trend which can be used to protect wildlife while enabling people to enjoy the nature as it is. I find it as a very sensitive trade. If you do it wisely everybody could get advantages.

Sri Lanka is now targeting a rise of tourist industry and there is a big room for eco-tourism. Sri Lanka is one of the best places to earn a big money if you invest in that area and a lot of service providers are already doing their operations. Apart from earning money, eco-tourism should contribute towards conservation of wildlife and betterment of the native people of the country. It should not challenge the social and cultural values of a society. Authorities should be aware of this.

Kandalama hotel has been built in a catchment area. According to our culture based on Weva*, catchment area is a most protected place and it was allowed only to collect medicinal plants by Wedamahaththaya/doctor. Kandalama hotel itself is being operated in very nature-friendly manner as they say, but it doesn’t payback the cost of disturbing a catchment area of a Weva by a massive construction, for the first time in the history. Before building the hotel, it was a heritage of all, but now it has become a private property, only moneyed people can access.

Just like Kandalama Weva, when it come the need of infra-structure for eco-tourism, a lot of heritages of common people are to be converted to private properties, but authorities are to be wise enough to maintain a sustainable level.

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Weva* - Weva is translated to English as a “tank”. In Sinhala, Weva is a physical structure that bound to a whole domain of cultural activities and values. But in English, Tank is just a physical structure. We should challenge this inaccurate translation.



 

Sunil Madhawa & my 89

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Most of the people who called themselves as journalists today are not journalists! But Sunil Madhawa Premathilake is a journalist. He is a sensitive person and he had a limitless love for the country and man-kind. He was brave enough to fight against powerful capitalist governments on behalf of liberty of the community. Most of all, he knew the responsibility of a journalist. His thirst for literature, passion of revealing the reality and committing any personal possessions for the betterment of others raised him to an honorable platform.

My memories on Sunil Aiya (most common way of calling him) go back to the dark age of 1989. It was the time that young generation took violent steps to challenge the government while unrest of the civil community was so high. In return, counter violence from the government was so terrible and that trend was targeting thousands of civilian lives also. This cyclic effect was making things worse.

None of the remarkable interferences were come through so called “international community”, but some of the artists and writers were doing their duty even without thinking of their lives. Sunil was one of the key writers who wanted to write against the dictatorship which was rising.. Sunil Madhawa became a giant in this manner.. He couldn’t exist in his position in most of the traditional newspapers because of the contexts of his writings. He left one by one.. there wasn’t any media to publish his bold ideas.. Sunil with few other brave writers gave birth to the trend of “Tabloid papers”.. they were actually not much focusing at profit, but it made some room for writing the reality.. people gathered around them while government kept on threatening the journalists who wrote the reality. Sunil became the target of few brutal attacks but survived with injuries.

In this time, I was just a student at Ananda College and was so inspired by literature and youthful radical ideas. As a group of amateur writers, we too were writing in our scales. Sunil Madhawa was a big hero in our arena. We were operating a writing circle in the college and we had some frequent activities, where Sunil Madhawa became a useful resource person. Sunil Madhawa’s passion of writing against suppression came to a climax by translating the book “Cry Freedom” (story of Steve Biko) to Sinhala (as Handanu Mana Nidahasa). Sinhala readers accept it with a great gravity since Sri Lanka itself had been showing the mirror images of the dictatorship and killing revealed in the book. Anyway, this book dragged his life to a great risk.

I used to visit the office of Lakdiva tabloid paper at Borella. Lakdiva editorial team was fabulous. Some of the famous people were blooming in it. Famous Wini Hettigoda was the cartoonist. Dalas Alahapperuma (minister in current parliament) was one of the writers. There was another special person called “Vimalasiri Gamlath”, that was Wimal Weerawansa who is playing a big role in today’s politics. His literature skills were tremendous. I wonder why he is not writing much today.. I call it a crime! Sunil Aiya was not much interested in anything else than literature and writing, but hanging around public bars. People were claiming that Sunil was addicted to alcohol. Sunil told that Bars are the best place to meet people; common people like factory workers, government servants, thieves, thugs, prostitutes and people of all calibers. Once, I wanted to ask about this and he honestly told that he is not addicted to alcohols, but to Pub societies. Dialog we had could be well-explained in Sinhala as it was;

I started an Open Wallpaper in school where I too started to reveal my radical feelings about what is happening in the country. I too understood it was time to go beyond Gamperaliya/Sinhabahu; our paper was bit aggressive. Aggressive enough to question the school whether it is justifiable to have a big-match fun while our motherland was on crisis! There is something else I need to tell, a lot of people around me was not approving this aggression. I guess they simply couldn’t accept this harsh criticism or they might have judged it as more political. I was “political” since I was schooling. I invited Sunil Aiya to visit my wallpaper and he came with Professor Somarathne Balasuriya (he is the translator of Albert Camus’ “The Stranger”). He went through the pages and gave some comments. By the time he didn’t forget to convey a warning message too; “You are so young, be careful.. this is not a good time”.

In the meantime, one of the students invited me to write to a weekly magazine and he didn’t mention what it was. (Later, I found out that he was lead by a JVP activist)

I didn’t know the scale of trouble I was heading to, but one incident clearly gave me a red light. I was hanging around Kotte where I had a lot of friends. Actually, I was sitting on a half wall talking to the friends.. We saw a couple of people were at a distance with a broken down motor bike as it was shown.. One of my other friends was coming passing those two strangers and he asked me whether you know those fellows.. I said “no, seems their bike is giving trouble” He replied with an amazement “But they were telling your name in a whispering voice and pointing at you!”

Everything came in to my mind with a flash. What Sunil Aiya told and etc. I understood that we were playing with fire. I simply stopped writing much radical type things and updating the Wall Paper was not done.

It was a dark age in deed. Youths were killed and burnt with tires here and there. Apart from the rebels, a lot of people died without any reason. Both rebels and government bodies sometimes diverted their guns to stop all kinds of rivals.. Sometimes to stop journalists, artists and for personal reasons too! In one such incident, a dozen of school children was labeled as rebels and killed for a personal reason lead by a minister (namely Nanda Mathew!) Not only him, most of the powerful people got their personal things done and accounted to the revolution. Some of the civil activists and intellectuals left the country for their own survival. Still I feel pathetic to see some of the ministers who approved brutal killing, being the members of that cabinet in that era, are now behaving like very honorable politicians. (this included our current speaker in the parliament Mr. V.J.Mu Lokubandara!)

Now it is 2009! No one talks much about the lost revolution and the crisis we faced 20 years ago, but I have my emotions with the tragic incidents happened in front of my eyes.

When I recall those past incidents I see Sunil Madhawa Premathilake as a great giant who fight against authorities on behalf of people.. he is a role model of a great journalist!

Recently, I saw Sunil Aiya at Borella bus stand. I knew he is with his noble dreams of a better world..!

Dutugamunu: a taboo topic?

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Jayantha Chandrasiri has started a massive cinematic task. He is going to take King Dutugemunu’s character to Cinema. It’s going to be a challenge definitely. Apart from making the film, he is also facing the challenges of critiques already. I wonder this is the first time in the history in Sri Lanka; someone has encountered this kind of criticism even before starting the shooting!

I guess, there is a hidden agenda in this suppression. I don’t know whether this film will be a success or not, but trying to stop it even before doing seems very suspicious. I received a couple of e-mails that criticize the film so aggressively.
When Handagama’s film was banned by authorities, there were a lot of activists and Independent Media movements who talked and showed their disapproval. No one seems to be rescuing Jayantha. What is the difference in between two scenarios?

Some of the critiques say Jayantha is doing this for money and this is supporting extreme nationalism. Jayantha was making dramas/movies based on historical events for a long time. Actually, at that time, no one was much interested in history or such attempts. Now everybody knows that country itself is having new awareness in national ides and rethinking of our own ways of solving the problems. Under current context, a lot more people, media and groups have changed their colors to show their brand new patriotic faces. Now Jayantha has no rights to do what he has been doing?

This case tempts me to analyze the situation this way.. Jayantha has been quite successful in his movie making carrier and significantly he is the only one who didn’t run after international awards. People of Sri Lanka always loved him for what he did. There are some "too much internationalized" entities that always did their best to drag down the true national awareness in Sri Lanka throughout the history. They are not sacred of Handagama, Prasanna Withanage or Vimukthi because they are actually passively promoting their needs. Those people should be really scared that Jayantha would do a better job, otherwise they will not try to hammer him even before starting the initial work.

I have seen some other group who has been criticizing the film because they simply don’t agree with selection of actors. They simply say actor who has been selected for role of Dutugamunu is "not majestic looking" enough to represent the king. They blame Jayantha for doing Anti-national acts through the movie!!

If we summarize the facts, Jayantha is being beaten by both nationalists and anti-nationalists! In a country that “Per person independent movements” are so high.. no one is there to protect his right to do his art!

This harsh criticism has increased my inquisitiveness about the movie.

This movie can be a success or failure... but I really can’t understand the ethical base of hammering Jayantha based on speculations, even before examining the product.

Role model in Conservation of Wildlife

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Officers of the government sector are being hammered by most of the media and people due to their inefficient working pattern and lack of positive attitudes towards the duty they got to perform. Department of wildlife is only one such government department which is being criticized by so many ways. While I started to hang around wild places since I was a school boy, I simply realized how hard their job should be. Any way, all the claims raise against them are not just speculations; there are a lot of corrupted and unbelievably lazy people in the scene.

Any way, there are some counter examples, who have committed the maximum to serve the country and do their job accurately. In one of the past posts, I revealed about one of the great wildlife officers I have met and his tragic end. (i.e. Mr.Kumarasinghe) There was only one another officer I can recall, who was inspired to do the job so cleverer. That’s Mr.Wasantha Pushpananda. End of this officer too was not with much difference from Kumarasinghe’s. Kumarasinghe was killed by poachers while Pushpananda was killed by terrorists! This world is not a fair place at all.

I first met Mr.Pushpananda while he was the park warden of Gal Oya National Park. I was on a visit to Gal Oya with few other guys from University of Colombo. When we expose our enthusiasm in wildlife and conservation, he was so happy and extended his full support to our work within the park premises. I have never seen such an efficient, dynamic and systematic person on this earth!

He kept park office as clean as a temple. No once could enter it without removing shoes. He was so fast in what he does. For an example, I have never seen someone who drives so fast in wild trails like he does. In other hand, he was so rigid with his laws and disciplinary procedures.

When ceasefire agreement was declared, government wanted to re-open Wilpattu in 2003. Pushpananda was assigned the massive task of converting this neglected park in to a functioning one and he was appointed the warden. I think, his energy and managing skills were well-shown with this unrealistic task. He had to renovate the old bungalows and re-shape the old roads to motor able once. When we visited Wilpattu Pushpananda explained his development plans with us. Specially he was talking to Dr.Dayawansa and got his opinions on his plans.

When he rehabilitates Wilpattu National Park, he didn’t depend on government money. Sometimes he personally went to business people and managed to get some financial supports. He managed to get the help of youths of the area when he needs extra labor force. He was a happy man and he was enjoying when Park was developed step by step. Willpattu became his home! With his efforts, Willpattu became one of the most famous Parks among wildlife enthusiasts very soon.

His death was so tragic! He was killed along with his team consist of wildlife rangers and army officers when he was on the way into the jungle to repair a drinking water tank for elephants. Bodies were found with gunshot injuries and server cutting injuries that showed signs of torture. Pushpananda died within the Park he loved most.. he died within the park he nursed to rebuild.


We couldn’t personally attend to his funeral due to an official matters. Anyway, we wanted to convey our condolence to his family members and we head to his village at Diyakitulkanda (off Mathugama) in the following evening after office duties. It was so dark and about mid-night when we reach his home. There wasn’t electricity in that village and we saw a small lamp had been lit in front of the house. When we spoke to his brother, we got to know the things we didn’t know about this great person. He had been so simple in his life; any of the villagers didn’t know about his massive important role in Sri Lankan wildlife. His brother started to cry when we expose our condolence.. Tears of a male are always heavier!

Since we have a peaceful surrounding today, Willpattu will be reopened and come up to the pinnacle of its state as a very important Wild Life Park in Sri Lanka… Only few would remind that, the soil of Willpattu had been fertilized with the tears, sweat and blood of a true hero of the nation.








Exploring Nuwara Gala – the second leg

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We all were quite amazed to explore Nuwara-Gala when we saw it for the first time. I revealed about it in one of my past posts. We decided to have an excursion again in November 2009, after the terrorism problem is over in the area.

As usual we left Colombo very early in the morning and head to Pollebedda via Maha Oya. We were aware about the severe drought in the area and got prepared with necessary drinking water with us.

Once we stepped in to the village we saw a lot of changes. We spent our first night in the school (Pollebedda Maha Vidyalay) and it had been developed so much. Last time we saw only a couple of poor buildings, but it had been converted to a big school with an increased number of students. Even the village economy seemed to have gained some growth may be with the Rambakan Oya irrigation project. Such development projects occur with the villages could even make devastating changes to day to day lives of the people and their society.

We couldn’t meet the old Wedda chief Gomba this time, but we heard that he was so old and spending most of the time on a wheel chair.

Wijaya who guided us to the Nuwara-Gala last time, also joined us with two other experienced trackers, (Gunabanda & Dharmadasa) who are very friendly and experts in the subject as same as Wijaya. We started our hike following early morning and it was so hot and weather was as dry as could be. Forest hadn’t experienced rain for last 6 months and strong wind was quite unbearable when we go up the top of the rock. Spending the night in the cave where we used last time, seemed quite impossible with the increasing winds in the late hours. So we spent (mostly sleepless!) our second night on the rock surface. We time to time changed the locations to find safe places from the wind, but it wasn’t possible at all.

Forest was not with much difference, but as we explained in the previous post this forest is very much exposed to illegal timber traders and poaching. Positive change was, water in the pond on the top of the rock was bit more cleanly and we used them for washing.

Anyway, I guess, it is high time to take steps to conserve this historically valuable place for future generations. Under current condition, anyone can destroy the ruins and historically valuable entities.

It was as tough as last time but we managed to get the real fruit of the dry zone hike. Mostly we were better equipped with knowledge about the area and relevant surrounding through Dr.Spittle’s and Mr.Douglas B.Ranasinghe’s books.

Below are only few of the photographs taken by Uresh and Roshan.








It’s a good walk through the dry grassy lands


Only fresh water spring lie in this thicket








A lot of room for photography!


Man made pond on the rock surface on the top













Cave which we used to spend night last time.
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